Flores

The Weather Will Test Your Patience

Let's get this out of the way: the weather on Flores is completely unhinged. Sunshine, sideways rain, fog so thick you can't see your own ears, and then sunshine again. All within 45 minutes. I'm not exaggerating. (Maybe the part with the ears.)

I spent half my time on the island staring at weather radar apps like a day trader watching stock charts. "There's a clear patch moving in from the west. If I drive now, I might get 20 minutes at Lagoa Funda before the next cloud swallows everything." Sometimes it worked. Sometimes I stood at a viewpoint staring into solid white nothing, wondering if the lake below still existed.

Here's what actually helps: download Windy or a similar radar app before you go. The standard weather forecast is useless here because it'll say "partly cloudy" for a day that includes sunshine, horizontal rain, and a brief hailstorm. The radar shows you where the gaps are in real time. Chase those gaps. That's how you see Flores.

June through September is your best window. The weather still does whatever it wants, but it wants sunshine more often. Outside that range, bring waterproof everything and lower your expectations. The island is still gorgeous in the rain, but you'll be photographing clouds instead of lakes. I've been there in November. It was warm and amazing.

Getting Around: Rent a Car, No Discussion

There is no useful public transport on Flores. A bus exists in theory, but I wouldn't plan a trip around it. You need a car. Rent one. Ideally before you arrive, because the selection is small and during peak season everything gets booked out.

The roads are narrow but decent. You can drive the entire island in maybe two hours if you don't stop, but you will stop. Constantly. Because every other turn reveals something absurd: a waterfall, a cliff, a viewpoint that makes you question why you ever go anywhere else.

Drive carefully, especially on the western coastal roads. They're winding, sometimes single-lane, and occasionally shared with cows who have zero interest in your schedule. There are no gas stations everywhere, either. Fill up in Santa Cruz or Lajes whenever you can. Running out of gas on a mountain road with no cell signal would be a very Flores thing to happen.

Santa Cruz das Flores is the main town. It has a harbor, a few cafés, a supermarket, and a bakery that closes when the owner feels like it. Fun fact: the airport runway is longer than the town itself. That should tell you everything about the scale of this place. Lajes das Flores, on the south side, is even smaller. Between the two, that's roughly all of Flores' infrastructure. Don't expect much in terms of services outside these.

And yes, there are of course some restaurants, and you can book organized tours. And that's fine. But if you have the opportunity to drive, then drive. The tour bus won't try the same spot 10 times within 3 hours because it was cloudy and you couldn't see anything.

What to Actually See and Do

The entire island is the attraction, but some spots stand out:

Lagoa Negra and Lagoa Comprida are two crater lakes sitting next to each other in the highlands. On a clear day, the colors are insane: one deep blue, the other bright green. On a foggy day, you see nothing and you'll have to come back. The viewpoint is right off the road, no hiking required.

Cascata do Poço do Bacalhau is a waterfall dropping into a natural pool surrounded by vertical green walls. In summer, locals swim here. The short trail down is steep and can be slippery, so wear proper shoes, not flip-flops. This is probably the most photographed spot on Flores and it deserves every photo.

Lagoa Branca (Caldeira Branca) is a crater lake in the island's interior that doesn't get as much attention as Negra and Comprida, but it's just as stunning when the clouds cooperate. The setting is classic Flores: a deep green caldera, dead quiet, no one around. It's accessible by car with a short walk to the viewpoint.

Cascata da Ribeira Grande is one of those waterfalls you stumble upon while driving and have to pull over for. A tall cascade plunging down a cliff face into a river valley, visible from the road. No hike needed, just stop and stare. It's especially impressive after rain, which on Flores means most of the time.

Poço da Ribeira do Ferreiro is the one that makes people's jaws drop. A short trail through lush forest leads you to a hidden amphitheater of mossy rock with dozens of thin waterfalls streaming down from every direction into a bright turquoise pool. It looks like something from a fantasy film. The walk in takes about 20 minutes from the road near Fajã Grande. Go early or late to avoid the few other tourists who know about it.

Cascata da Ribeira do Fundão is a massive waterfall near Fajã Grande that drops straight off the cliff edge above the village. You can see it from below or hike to the top for a completely different perspective. After heavy rain it turns into an absolute monster. Combined with the other falls in the Fajã Grande area, this corner of the island alone justifies the trip.

Fajã Grande is the village that ties all these western waterfalls together, and also happens to be the westernmost settlement in Europe. The Poço da Alagoinha trail starts near here and takes you past several falls and natural pools. If you only do one hike, make it this one. Budget 3-4 hours, bring water, and check the weather first.

Rocha dos Bordões is a cliff face made of vertical basalt columns that looks like a giant pipe organ built into the hillside. It's visible from the road and there's a short path to a viewpoint. Quick stop, very worth it.

The Seven Lakes Trail (Trilho dos Sete Lagoas) is the big one: roughly 12 km through the island's volcanic interior, past multiple crater lakes. It's not technically difficult but it's long and fully exposed to whatever weather Flores feels like throwing at you. Only attempt this on a genuinely clear day and start early.

Beyond the named spots: just drive. The entire western and northern coast is one continuous "are you serious" moment. Stop wherever something catches your eye. Some of the best things I saw on Flores had no name and no marker.

Food, Drinks, and Where to Sleep

Don't come to Flores for the food scene. It's fine. There are a handful of restaurants, mostly in Santa Cruz and Lajes, serving solid Portuguese and Azorean basics, also Chinese and you can get (really good) Pizza as well. Caldeirada (fish stew) is the local dish. The seafood is fresh and good. Portions are generous. Prices are reasonable by European standards.

For drinks, aguardente is the local spirit. It's strong. You've been warned.

The supermarket in Santa Cruz is small but has everything you need for basic self-catering. If your accommodation has a kitchen, use it. Some days the weather will be so bad that cooking in and waiting it out is the smartest move.

Accommodation is limited. There are a few guesthouses, some vacation rentals, and one or two hotels. Book well in advance for July and August. The upside of limited options: almost everything is run by people who genuinely care.

One important thing: Flores has no ATMs in every corner (but it has some, of course). Bring enough cash or make sure your card works. Some smaller places are cash only.